Probably, I really doubt he's got a D.villosa from out of a store.
Just a couple more pointers, hope you don't mind. Also a point
of contest.
> Nepenthes
They all work if the cutting is kept at the correct temperature range.
Highlanders like it cool while lowlanders like it hot. Some are
intermediate so if you're unsure, please ask the list.
> - cut the stem off 3 or 4 leaves up from the base - don't worry, new
> growth will sprout
Don't cut way the top so that there is no more viable leaves between
the soil and top of stem. Nepenthes have differing stages of life,
they start off as flatish rosettes, then the center will rise up
making a vine. At this point, the bottom foliage of the rosette
dies died back leaving the bottom a bare vine. Most species will
produce new, stronger, basal rosettes from about where the old
vine meets the soil. This often takes place after about a year
or more of vining growth. In the meantime, you can take cuttings
from the top which have two or three completely developed leaves,
if not pitchers. Cut the stem near the node (where the leaf joins
the stem) so that the bottom leaf is only loosely attached. Pull
off this leaf so the the cambium shows. Now, you'll have a large
area from which roots will grow not to mention lots of active node
cells which are still undifferentiated (sp?).
> - cut the stem into lengths, each with 3-4 leaves
Just about any number of leaves can work, so long so there's
enough stem, BTW. I'd use make a cut so at least one whole
leaf, pitcher and all, will still on the cutting.
> - cut the end half of each leaf off (to reduce transpiration)
I read this lot in books but have found that is easier to leave
the pitchers on the plant and to fill them with water so to keep
the cutting hydrated. If you have no pitchers this will work with,
then cutting off some of the leaf will help. *not* the point of contest.
> - dip the bottom end of each cutting into rooting powder, and pot
> up in a suitable compost (I use 1:1:1:1 coarse bark:perlite:hortag
> (clay beads):peat)
Ok, here it is: I've found that rooting hormone doesn't work well
on Nepenthes and keeps the cuttings from producing roots, no matter
which method used. Christoph, that N.hursuita didn't grow roots from
where the RooTone was, but from a couple nodes further up. I think
the use of rooting hormones is the reason people don't get near
100% strike rate from their cuttings (not to mention bad cuts).
I do and use none. More controversy please!
> - keep the cuttings warm, as humid as possible, in good light and
> mist them every day
Yes!
> The development of roots seems to work
> at about the same speed - once you've got a few leaves on the new
> growth, it should be well rooted, though it's probably not advisable
> to keep digging it up to check while it's still working hard at
> getting established.
That's good point. Some people use clear containers so they can
see when the roots have grown larger enough too transplants.
Dave E