Date: Wed, 17 Dec 1997 07:39:58 -0500 (EST) From: Perry Malouf <pmalouf@access.digex.net> To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-Id: <aabcdefg4741$foo@default> Subject: Nep. soil (12 Kbytes long)
Hello everyone,
Happy holidays! I have taken the liberty of compiling most of
the listserver responses to my request for recipes, regarding potting media
for Nepenthes. The responses are summarized below. Unfortunately
I did lose a few (in particular Andreas Wistuba's recipe), sorry.
But I also added some comments from Cliff Dodd which were
either posted some time ago, or resulted from a "private" e-mail
exchange between us. His comments are at the end.
Jay Lechtman may put some of this material in an upcoming
CPN, as he asked me for permission to publish my original posting.
The various recipes are interesting. In some cases, location plays
a definite role as to what recipe is used--climate and available
materials help determine the choice.
I hope this information is useful and/or interesting to the readership.
Regards,
Perry Malouf
=======================================================
I use a 1:1 mix (by volume) of New Zealand sphagnum and coarse perlite.
The perlite is rinsed thoroughly before use. The coarse grade contains far
less fluorides than the finer grades, according to OFE Orchids (the supplier).
The plants seem to do fine, and the mix lasts for a couple of years.
=======================================================
I use the following mixture (all ingredients are by volume):
40% pine bark chips (this stuff is easy to aquire here and comes in
large bags, used for mulching beds)
20% chopped osmunda fiber
10% peat moss
10% large-grained silica sand.
10% long-fibered sphagnum moss
5% perlite (horticultural grade)
5% horticultural charcoal
This mix drains well and seems to work great for both my lowland and
highland plants. The last time I potted up some neps I took a pH reading
from the above mix. It came in around 5.0-5.5.
=======================================================
My 2 bob's worth on the Nep medium topic: 80% Orchid mix and 20% long-fibre
sphagnum moss seems quite good, since the mix contains barks and perlite. I
used this stuff first since Adrian Slack's book recommends it, and it's
readily available. ....
=======================================================
I'm not a big Neps grower, I just have a few and they seem to be doing nicely.
I use 5 different mixes of the following:
1:1:1:1:1
Peat: Perlite: Dried Sphagnum: General Orchid Bark: *Burnt Pine Straw
Note: the pine straw is measured prior to burning. Once burned, I just
add the ashes to the mix, wet everything down and let it season for
two weeks before using it....
=======================================================
We have adapted an orchid growing technique for use in growing Nepenthes. It
seems to work well universally with all the species we grow in the greenhouse.
The base of the plant is wrapped into a ball of long fiber sphagnum moss the
size of a baseball. Two inches of White styrofoam (coloured peanuts are
phytotoxic) peanuts are placed on the bottom of the pot and the sphagnum
ball is set on top. The 1" space around the ball is filled with medium grade
orchid bark so that the ball is covered with the bark. We use plastic pots
to help maintain humidity within the pot.
Since the ball is not exposed to air, it dries out very slowly. This
maintains a constantly moist, but not sodden enviroment for the Nepenthes
roots. If water collects in the base of the pot only styrofoam sits in it
and the organic medium does not go sour. Large air spaces within the pot
supply roots with abundant oxygen as they would receive in the wild.
This method is used for ALL species with no failures to date. Some plants which
have not been repotted for four years are growing vigorously and pitchering
very well. ...
=======================================================
I have two mixes that I've been using with relative success.
1. 2:2:1 peatmoss, silica sand, charcoal (or fir bark)
2. 4:4:2:1 fir bark, charcoal, peatmoss, silica sand
The second mix is much airier due to the increase in fir bark and
charcoal. The charcoal is a substitute for perlite. I would like to obtain
pumice (not refined into perlite) or clay beads to substitute for the fir
bark and charcoal.
=======================================================
Here is my current potting mix for Nepenthes (strongest growers: alata,
mirabilis, rafflesiana, ampullaria, merrilliata, truncata, hookeriana,
insignis, many hybrids)
perlite-two grades, aliflor (clay pellets), pumice, seedling grade fir
bark, sphagnum moss(long fiber), Canadian sphagnum peat moss, silica
sand. Unfortunately, I don't measure the components out, but mix by
"eye" or "feel". Best to describe as fluffy, and rapidly draining.
=======================================================
I like to contribute my experience with an experimental material for
growing ... Nepenthes ....But let me say first, that I grow my mature
plants of Nepenthes in a different medium than the experimental material
I mentioned below. I grow most of my large Nepenthes plants in living
sphagnum moss with a layer of perlite on the bottom 1/3 rd of a one
gallon pot. Since the moss is living and growing, the medium never
needs changing unless you do something to kill it....
Now for the experimental, I grow seedlings and 2-5 yr old plants of
Nepenthes in a German material made by Sera called Pond Water Peat which
has good properties for resisting the growth of algae. It also has
resistance to fungus because of its high humic acid content. Since its
obvious that this material is used for fish aquariums and ponds, several
members of the BACPS here in the San Francisco CP society decided about
4 years ago to do some experimenting. I was one of them.
The material is expensive, about $14.00 per pound. As a result, we are
relunctant to use it on big plants. However, we found that adding
perlite up to 50% seems to expand the product with somewhat less than
maximum desirable results. The material comes in a bag of little hard
balls of peat the size of pearls of different sizes. I would say sizes
range from 2mm to 6mm. It is important to soak this material for 3-4
weeks in R. O. or distilled water in a zip-lock plastic bag which causes
these balls to turn from brown to black.
The results are fantastic. Because of the high tannin content, all
plants have rich colors. The pitchers of N. sanguinea are deep red even
in a weak light environment.It takes a while for plants moved from one
soil to mix to get used to this new material. I estimate new growth
starts in a month.
=======================================================
I have experimented with many mixes and I do not use the standard mix (tree
fern/fir bark/charcoal) for all the species. I do use it for most though (95%).
The other species that come from serpentine derived soils (.e.: rajah,
burbidgea, macro-vulgaris, edwardsiana, etc.) I grow in 10% of the above mix
mixed with 90% hydrated silica gel. This is a substance that holds water,
and is almost totally devoid of cations and harmful substanced that leach
out of organic mixes. In the field these species live in very sterile
nutrient poor soils, this comes as close as we can get.
As to why I do not use perlite and sphagnum, perlite gives of fluorides which
are toxic to some plants. I have never seen it to have value in Nepenthes
culture. Charcoal provides aeration and absorbs at least some toxic substances.
=======================================================
[Nepenthes lowii] responds to the following general Nepenthes cultivation:
Media: equal parts (all fine) horticultural charcoal, fir bark, shredded tree
fern. Media should be pre-soaked for at least 24 hours then rinsed before use.
=======================================================
The question of media for Nepenthes is a recurring question and not easily
answered. It may depend on temperature, water quality, greenhouse vs.
terrarium culture, etc.
In my area (Central Florida) most species are grown in a mix of equal parts
fine grain fir bark/charcoal/tree fern fiber. This applies to highland species
(which are generally grown in baskets) and lowland (plastic pots) alike.
I personally do not grow any Nepenthes in sphagnum because in my climate
it rots very quickly and the roots will soon be in an anaerobic muck which
may kill the plant. This mix usually is good for about 2 years and then must
be changed. As this is a very well drained and porous mix, it must be
pre-soaked at least 24 hours before use. It will also mean regular watering
in warm weather. Species that respond well to this are quite varied in
habitat in the field: N. alata, ampullaria, bicacarata, tentaculata,
mirabilis, veitchii, macfarlanei, maxima, lowii, truncata and many others.
The main difficulty comes in trying to grow the species restricted to
ultra-basic soils. This includes N. rajah, burbidgea, macro-vulgaris,
and also stenophylla (N.fallax?) and villosa (although they are not
confined to these soils). So far in cultivation here, ultra basic species
have responded to two types of media. One is 90% 3mm silica-gel mixed with
10% of the standard mix. This is NOT the silica gel that dissolves in water,
or the type with indicator crystals in it. It is white to clear and very
hard. It must be hydrated in a high humidity environment for several
days before use, for if immersed directly in water it will fracture to dust.
The other medium is 90% high-fired clay used in aquarium filtration and 10%
standard mix. One brand of this is called Biopur. It must be crushed as
it comes in little cylindars and roots might get restricted in the holes.
BOTH of these media are EXPENSIVE, but the silica gel can be bought in bulk,
the other (so far) cannot. This is not a problem if you have only a few of
the ultra basic forms, most of which are still fairly uncommon. Since
N. rajah is now in tissue culture a series of media should be
experimented with to determine the optimum soils.
Lastly there is the little understood problem of N. northiana which has not
really responded to any soil with any great vigor. Neither the above
mentioned soils nor the addition of limestone (marble) has produced growth
consistant of plants in the field. N. sumatrana is another plant that
survives but is not terribly happy about cultivation.
Other medias worth experimenting with include rock wools and aerolite. Media
to avoid: redwood fiber, cork, peat (too dense and acid), lava rock, turface.
Coupled with media should be high quality water (R.O. or similar) which is
absolutely necessary for the ultra basic species.
Again this is what works for me in my area of the world, and I am still
very much learning about Nepenthes.
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