Date: Sun, 19 Jul 1998 08:12:40 -0600 (MDT) From: bcochran@webtv.net (Brian Cochran) To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-Id: <aabcdefg2404$foo@default> Subject: Byblis gigantea cultivation
Mark,
If you have succeded in getting your Byblis gigantea to shed its seed
coat you are well on your way to success. I have been growing these
plants for about 5 years now and that is the toughest time to get them
through.
The only problem that you may have is temperature. I lived in Virginia
and usually started mine indoors in November under the same conditions
you started yours. But the temperature for the first three to four
months of growth hovered around the 65 degree mark. At this time they
grow very slowly, then suddenly around four months they take off. It is
only then that I move them outdoors (late March) and leave them outside
all Summer and Fall. After being established they can take temps over
100 f and down to a frost at the end of the season.
In summer the soil should be dryish on top and moist about an inch down.
I've tried starting mine in Summer and was never very successful.
Allen Lowrie tells me there are two types, a northern form and a
southern form. The best known northern forms are from Eneabba and
Cataby. The southern forms grow around Perth. The main difference is
that the northern forms grow faster, flower sooner, and lose their
bottom leaves more quickly. The Perth forms tend to be a darker green,
have closer set glands, and are stockier. They both respond well to the
same treatment. The northern form, however, will even grow in pure
white silica sand.
Mark, if you have more questions please feel free to write me directly.
Brian "Johnny Byblis-seed" Cochran
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