Date: Thu, 17 Aug 2000 09:54:38 PDT From: "Steve Klitzing" <starbirdcom@hotmail.com> To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-Id: <aabcdefg2534$foo@default> Subject: Nepenthes seed sprouting
When I first started trying to sprout Nepenthes seed, I had
a lot of N. Khasiana seed. So, I got some jars and put moist
peat moss in them. Then, I took the Nepenthes seed and, with
a tweezers or toothpick, moved them down *between the clear glass
of the side of the jar and the side surface of the peat moss* so
they were sandwiched between peat and glass. I made sure they were
about a *half inch to an inch* below the soil surface of the top of the
jar. I then capped the jar and let it sit. The mold/fungus in the peat
appeared, but stayed on the top surface layer of the peat. It
did not work its way down to the seed on the side of the jar. Why,
I'm not sure. The Nepenthes seed stayed moist, and received indirect light
(bounch light) from the outside. Within a few weeks, nearly all of the seed
had sprouted. When the first two primary leaves came out, that was the
signal to take a toothpick, move away the peat from the side of the jar
where the seed was, and extract the seedling. I then took the seedling and
put it in a small moist pot of its own, taking care to make sure the seed
and young root were below the soil level. I then put a baggie over the top
of the pot, and secured it with a rubber band, making sure the peat was
first moist. The plants grew favorably this way. When large enough, they
went into larger pots without a baggie. Make sure these are plastic pots.
Every time I have tried surface sprouting on peat, the technique fails
mainly due to fungus and/or drying out. I think the key is, it needs fungus
free moisture, warmth and indirect light. The jar technique does this very
well. If done on a window sill, the side of the jar that faces most of the
light usually does not sprout seeds. The seeds sprout on the edges and the
back, where the light is less intense. This is probably not an issue in a
greenhouse, or if the jar is put in an east facing window where it gets
morning sun. If it's during the cold winter, this is best done in a west
facing window, or under artificial light.
At California Carnivores, I was shown a pot where they had sprouted
Nepenthes seed on the surface. But, the soil they used was a mix of sand,
with perlite, and a lot of organic material such as redwood compost and
peat. (That's what it appeared to me). And, since they have a greenhouse
environment, open air sprouting is less of a problem as the temps at CC are
good, and the humidity is constant. As for lowlanders, it looks like they
sprouted their seeds in an inner greenhouse, or humidity/heat tent, in the
middle of the greenhouse.
Also, another technique to trie, which I haven't, is to use test tubes with
the same idea as the jar technique. But, it might be interesting to use
inorganic sprouting matter instead, to see if there is a better rate of
germination.
Sadly, some packets of Nepenthes seed don't sprout no matter what you do.
Those are probably dead seeds when you get them. Most likely due to
improper storage. The best seed storage technique (for any seed) I have
seen is used by Park Seed, who put all their seeds in a foil packet which,
inside, has an inner clear plastic liner with most of the air sucked out of
it.
The next issue for Nepenthes, when they have sprouted, is making sure they
get to the pitchering stage. I have been told to give them a mild dose of
Miracid, to help them grow. But, I find that the third, fourth, and fifth
leaf of a seedling Nepenthes is carnivorous, even though it does not form a
real pitcher. Everybody can find ants. Go outside, look for a trail of
ants, and grab a few. Smash them so they are dead and roll the ant smash
up. Take it, and put it on the surface of leaves 3, 4, and 5. Add a drop
of water from an eyedropper to the ant mash on those leaves. This activates
all the chemicals in the leaves and the ant mash. The resulting chemical
release will be absorbed by those leaves (they already have the ability to
digest), and the next leaves will have full pitchers, though they will be
small at first and will take only ants. I've seen rapid and dramatic growth
of seedling Nepenthes from this technique. It probably cuts months off of
any other process. Nepenthes love ants. But, in six months, you won't be
able to find enought ants. Anyone have any good cultural/feeding
information for older Nepenthes?
I know there are a lot of scientists in this group, and what I have just
described is rather unscientific. But it works for me. I'm not a CP
purist. I just do this for fun. I still find a lot of magic and awe in the
Nepenthes sprouting process.
Also, I just built a new greenhouse, and I am looking for Nepenthes seed.
---Steve Klitzing
starbirdcom@earthlink.net
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