The old domain @vlsi.louisville.edu is no more as of last Friday. That
computer was a DEC VAX 8250 and was sent back to DEC. The university bought
a new computer, an OSF/1 AXP 3000 model 400s that is 100 times faster, domain
name "homer". Do a "finger @homer.louisville.edu" some time and see the
number of users online. It gets very little use from what I see.
Barry: thanks for the seeds. They arrived Saturday.
>How does one go about joing ICPS? Address? Is the ICPS publication CPN? I've
>seen several mentions of this and would like to learn more. Thanks.
CPN is the newsletter issued by ICPS. Dues are $15 per year for USA members,
$20 for others. Send check to:
ICPS
c/o Fullerton Arboretum
CSUF
Fullerton, CA 92634
USA
>Allen Lowrie just sent out his new seed/plant list and is still listing
>it as on sale from him. If you don't mind paying the added postage write to
>Allen.
Does anyone else have the list? What Nepenthes seeds does he have? I'd like
to try D. glanduligera (seeds) again too.
>Is there any problem getting included in the order for a few plants?
>
>...how 'bout the Heliamphora? Were the prices based on large multiples or
>for single plants?
You (and anyone else) can be included. The prices are based on single plants
(some species have a discount price because the group is buying over a certain
amount of these). I'm not making any profit on this deal. The prices posted
are the exact ones from the seller's price list.
>If one establishes a stem cutting from an upper portion of
>a Nepenthes plant, ie a section forming "upper" pitchers,
>will the newly rooted plant form lower pitchers near
>the surface as it grows? Or is it destined to only make
>upper pitchers?
If it's a terminal cutting, I've found that the plant will continue to
make upper pitchers. The plant should soon send up a new shoot from
below the soil surface. These new shoots should produce lower pitchers.
Side shoots produced from a dormant bud from stem cuttings usually produce
lower pitchers.
>I am growing two small Nepenthes in a greenhouse and one of them has
>been sick for the last month, with flacid, dull leaves. I have tried
>repotting into a 50:50 mixture of perlite:peat moss and have been
>treating with a fungicide but neither seem to have helped. Any ideas?
Check the soil condition. Take a pea-size bit of the soil and pinch it. If it
produces a drop of water, you've got a water-logged plant and it will need
to be repotted. It may not have much of a root system so it's a good idea to
grow it on for several months inside a clear plastic bag after repotting.
When using a new soil mix, test it for water-holding capacity. Before potting
the plant, put the soil into the pot and pour water into the soil until the
water runs out the bottom. Take the soil from the pot and squeeze the excess
water into a cup. Mix the soil with more perlite if you get more than about
a styrofoam cupful of water for every 8-inch potful of soil mix.
Nepenthes flowering:
Someone wanted to know what triggers flowering in Nepenthes last week. I
think it's light intensity. My plants had never flowered growing many years
under flourescent lights, and I had some plants with vines several feet long.
Is there some particular wavelength needed? Ultraviolet is good for leaf
growth, but I've heard infrared light plays a big part in the flowering
cycle and fruit ripening in particular.
> Nepenthes: price in Deutche Marks
>
> lowii (5 cm diameter) (Gunung Mulu) 80
> lowii (5 cm diameter) (Gunung Trusmadi) 70
>>I know I'd like two of these plants. Do you happen to know the difference?
I'm not sure. From what I've heard, there is a lot of variability in this
species that manifests itself in the peristome of the lower pitchers -
ranging from no peristome to a rudimentary one (looks like "notches" around
the rim of the pitcher).
-- Don Burden New Albany, Indiana, USA donb@coplex.com