Date: Mon, 24 Mar 97 17:26 EST From: dave evans <T442119@RUTADMIN.RUTGERS.EDU> To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-Id: <aabcdefg1079$foo@default> Subject: Re: D. and U. identification.
> From: "Christopher Walkden" <Christow@MSN.COM>
>
> The first is a non tuberous rosette Drosera, about 2cm in diameter. It has
> plenty of leaves, green with red tentacles, these are teardrop shaped (rather
> than a thin stem
The "thin stem" is really called a petiole and is part of the leaf
which connects to the stem. The part where the tentacles grow
from is the lamina. Not all leaves have petioles and those just merge
with the stem.
> then a round leaf). Flowers are pink, and I have seen up to
> eight on a scape. I have only ever seen one scape to a plant, they are
> flowering now - early autumn. This plant could be a D.cistiflora (according
> to the description in a book I have), but I'm not sure.
If it's a flat rosette, no real stem length, then it's not D.cistisflora.
If it's the book I'm thinking of, the names of the plants on that page
were mixed up. D.cis. leaves come to a point and the stems can grow to
between six to 12 inches atop of which numerous flowers (most often white)
will grow. Sound like you have D.capillaris or D.spatulata.
Sorry, can't help with the Utric.
> Also, I have a plant that I have always called a S.flava. This plant has lots
> of yellow flowers, and big yellow pitchers with red veins down the insides.
> Some plants also have a nice red splotch in the main fly catching area, just
> under the hood. The only problem is that these plants all produce winter
> leaves. Do S.flava do this? I was under the impression that only S.oreophila
> did so.
Yes, flava does. Besides for S.rubra complex, S.flava and S.oreophila
are the closest of relatives in Sarracenia. S.oreophila has a stricter
dormancy than S.flava and it's phyllodia (winter leaves) are very short
and curly. S.flava's are much longer and some will grow pitchers
longer into the season while those from drier places will start growing
the phyllodia in mid-summer, as they are expecting less rain. Both
species can be made to keep their pitchers even though they have started
growing phyllodia by keeping them very wet. But once S.oreo has noticed
any drying to it's media, it will drop it's pitchers and you'll
not see them again 'til next spring and the plant's soil should be
kept wet, but not sopping like the rest of the Sarracenia like it,
until next late winter/spring too. In other words, it's lot easier
to just keep them very wet and out of total dormancy.
Dave Evans
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