Date: Wed, 29 Nov 2000 11:35:00 -0500 From: Brewer Charles E PHDN <brewerce@nswcphdn.navy.mil> To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-Id: <aabcdefg3441$foo@default> Subject: RE: Tannins, peat tea recipe
v/r,
Charles E. Brewer
Code 6I00 Information Services
NSWC PHD Dam Neck
(757) 492-6609
DSN 492-6609
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Botanique [SMTP:botaniqu@pitcherplant.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 29, 2000 10:44 AM
> To: Multiple recipients of list CP
> Subject: Re: Tannins, peat tea recipe
>
>
> At some point, I'll get the mentioned article on our web site
> http://www.pitcherplant.com, but, since some folks may want to know an
> approximate recipe for this peat tea, here it goes:
> This recipe is slightly modified from the original article appearing in
> the
> Carnivorous Plant Newsletter.
> 1.In a large, stainless steel container add 2 gallons pure water
> (distilled, reverse-osmosis,etc.), 3/4 gallon new, unleached peat
> moss-tamped slightly,and a ball of long-fiber sphagnum (dead,dry) about
> the
> size of a grapefruit-compressed slightly. You can also substitute many
> acidic humus sources for the sphagnum, including leaf humus(partially
> decayed) from pine, oak, hemlock (Tsuga) and mixed forests.
> These will tend to float; stir them down with a stick, I use bamboo,
> until
> the ingredients are saturated.
> 2.Add one more gallon of pure water.Stir.
> 3.Bring this mixture to a high temperature. There are many soil chemists
> who prefer to keep the temperature at 160-170degF, due to the perishable
> nature of some soil enzymes, but I bring the mixture to a low simmer for
> 20-30 minutes to nearly sterilize the concentrate. This mix will require
> occaisional stirring to prevent boil over and is best done on a camp stove
> outside!
> 4.After 30 minutes, remove from heat and wait about 5 minutes, for some
> settling and cooling.
> 5.This is the tricky part; be careful as the hot concentrate is not easy
> to
> handle. You may wish to cover the liquid and let it cool before straining.
> I'm familiar with handling it and prefer to strain it hot into containers
> so it will keep better (about 2-3 weeks in a covered milk jug.)
> Stretch a nylon stocking over a clean, large funnel or galvanized
> watering
> can, leaving some slack for the solids. Secure this if needed so it won't
> slip. Slowly pour the concentrate to ONE SIDE of the stocking to strain
> it.
> If you pour too quickly, the solids will plug the nylon and cap the
> receptacle, spilling the brew over the top! You can use the stirring stick
> to hold back the larger chunks while pouring. Avoid hand contact as this
> will add bacteria, possibly burn you (if hot) and decrease the storage
> life
> of the concentrate. With experience, this filtering will get easier as you
> adapt your technique to your equipment.
> 6.Once cool, add about 1 1/2 cups of this concentrate to a gallon of pure
> water and aerate the diluted "peat tea" by vigorously shaking in a
> partially filled jug. For those of you with test equipment, I standardize
> this tea by adding either concentrate or water to achieve a pH of 4.5-5.4
> and a conductivity of about 18-22 microsiemens. The above dilution ratio
> should get you close enough for most applications, so exact meter readings
> aren't usually needed. The solution should be dark tea colored and can be
> used to drench the soil of the plants you wish to treat. Store the
> concentrate in clean, covered plastic milk jugs. Use diluted=ready to use
> tea within a couple days, or it will start to grow microbes (mostly
> harmless water molds.) I do not recommend using the concentrate without
> dilution.
> I apply this once every month or so. Be sure to leach the soil between
> applications or evaporation can concentrate further the chemicals in the
> soil. I haven't tested this stuff enough on Dionaea, but since flytraps
> like to be repotted every year in fresh peat, I believe they would benefit
> from the tea, which can lower the pH in older media. Pinguicula planifolia
> does benefit from this tea, as do most Nepenthes.
> This recipe makes about 1 1/2 -2 gallons of concentrate, which is a lot
> for most people; you can divide the recipe in half or quarters, as needed.
> Many plants can take, may benefit from a stronger solution, but I wouldn't
> use over 3 cups concentrate per gallon of water unless you have
> experimented and found it safe for your application.
> I hope some will find this information useful.After the article was
> published, I received several letters and phone calls from CP growers who
> had "problem plants" perk up a few weeks after using this tea, most likely
> due to pH improvement. Some created their own recipes and techniques. One
> grower uses "blackwater" which is naturally formed tannic water found in
> some wetlands. The basic technique is well-documented with successes, but
> if your plants are growing fine, I wouldn't bother; don't fix what ain't
> broken! Sincerely, Rob Sacilotto/Botanique.
>
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