Date: Mon, 23 Mar 1998 10:10:49 -0800 (PST) From: Andrew Marshall <andrewm@eskimo.com> To: cp@opus.hpl.hp.com Message-Id: <aabcdefg1004$foo@default> Subject: Re: The Method for rooting nepenthes!
Hi there folks,
I have been asked to give more details on my methods of rooting
Nepenthes, and also to repeat the details of the rooting chamber. Here
goes,
To root Nepenthes, hopefully! :-)
I prefer to try cuttings in late winter, around end of January, as
they seem to go better then.
I select a Nepenthes with plenty of vine, and good internodal
length. The ideal cutting for me is one with plenty of stem below the
first leaf to make roots from, and still leave enough room for the node
beneath the cut. In other words, when I cut inbetween the two leaves on a
stem, I cut nearer to the leaf closest to the roots of the plant
(proximal), but not close enough to damage to the node hidden just above
the leaf there on the stem. If there is not enough room for this, I will
not cut unless I have to.
I count the leaves from the tip of the stem. For the rest of the
discussion I will use the words distal (furthest from the centre, ie your
fingertips as compared to your heart), and proximal, (closer or closest to
the centre as in your elbow compared to your fingertips in the
relationship of both to your heart) to describe the locations of cuts and
leaves etc... It is easier.
So, I count the leaves starting distal, and working proximally,
each leaf representing a node, and not counting the tip-top. If there are
12 leaves and a tip-top, there will be 3 three node cuttings and a 4 node
as in reality, the tip-top is another node.
I count the leaves to determine the place to cut that will produce
the number of cuttings I want to try. My first cut is a diagonal cut at
that place most proximal to the plant and that large chunk of vine is then
placed in a bucket of water in which superthrive has been dumped. A good
slug of it per 2-3 gallons. This is for good luck more then anything. I
frequently forget and notice little difference. I leave the cutting in
there while I prepare the rockwool cubes. I cut 5 or 6 from the slab and
get them good and wet, then poke a hole in the centre with finger tip,
pencil, pen knife or what ever (improvise) and make out the tags and
insert them into the cubes. This gives the cutting enough time to take up
any superthrive if it is going to.
The actual cuttings are made thusly. Counting backwards along the
stem from the tip-top three nodes, NOT including the tip-top,I make a
duagonal cut proximal to the next leaf, but not so close as to damage the
node. The detatched part is then lain down and slits are made in line
with the stem, from the cut upwards about 1 or 2 cm (1.5") and on three or
four sides of the stem. They should pierce the first layer of skin, but
not slice all the way through the stem. You are trying to increase the
surface area exposed to the rooting hormone here. Now, dip the cutting in
rooting hormone. I have used rootone powder and dip-n-grow liquid with
equally good results. Take the cut end and insert it into the pre-made
hole in the rockwool cube and then place the cutting in the cutting
chamber.
*****************note*************
Some people prune the leaves back about a third to one half of
thier original size. This is done to reduce transpiration. I have done
this before, in fact I have done experiments with cuttings taken from the
same stem, where some were pruned and some were left intact. The results
were ambiguous, but more so on the side of no real difference being
detected. I usually lost just as many that were pruned as were not, or
had just as many grow well pruned as not.
The cutting chamber.
Mine is made from an old aquarium in which I have construted a
shelf from several bricks and a cut to size watering tray, inverted or
placed face down. The aquarium is then filled with water to just above
the level of the shelf. Under the shelf is placed a submersible (make
sure it IS a submersible one, not a regular one. The resulting explosion
from a mistake can be alarming) aquarium heater set to about 30-35'c
(90+'f) MAKE SURE THE FOLLOWING.
1: the heater is NEVER plugged in except when in the water.
2: it is allowed 15 minutes cooling time BEFORE being removed from the
water
Failure to observe these rules will result in loss of heater and
possibly other damage as well. They like to explode when turned on while
dry.
The cuttings are placed on this shelf that is in the aquarium,
with the rockwool cubes being just barely in the water. The idea is to
keep them just wet, not soggy. Play around with water levels and see what
happens. Experiment!!!
The whole thing is sealed over with a sheet of plexiglass and on
top of that are arranged two sets of two tube florescent tubes. I have
used cool white (cheap) and show and grow brand grow lights with no
differnce except cost. There is no day/night cycle. The lights are on 24
hours a day.
I watch and when I see root growth from the sides of the rockwool
cubes coupled with good top growth I remove the cutting and place it in
another aquarium that is unheated, but enclosed and is subject to the
normal fluctuations in temp and light in the greenhouse. It stays there,
with the lid being opened more each day until it is hardened off enough to
remove and place in the greenhouse.
Time of all this depends on species and luck. It works best for
intermediates and lwlanders, but by cooling the water, 10'f it works for
highlanders as well. Ultra highlanders are rooted by placing the cutting
in a sealed plastic bag in the greenhouse and hoping mightily for good
luck.
I hope these details help.
Good growing
Andrew
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